GYACHUNG KANG
North Face, Slovenian Route, Second Ascent

Taeko and Yasushi Yamanoi (Japan) attempted Gyachung Kang (7985m) via the Slovenian Route (M4 55? 2000m, Car-Jakofcic-Jost-Meznar-Prezelj-tremfelj, 1999) in October. They arrived at base camp on September 16 and spent twenty days acclimating up to 6900 meters before proceeding to an advanced camp at the foot of the north face. On October 5 they left base camp; their cook, Gyaltsen,
remained to look after camp during their climb. They began their ascent from 5900 meters on October 6 at 5 a.m., climbing unroped over mixed terrain (50?60?. The upper part of the face featured overhanging rock and ice; fearing avalanches, they traversed beneath it, reaching 7000 meters, where they painstakingly chopped a ledge for their tent. On October 7 they continued, again unroped, climbing straight up before traversing right to a wide, thirty-degree plateau at 7500 meters, where they bivouacked. During this bivy, Yasushi noticed several toes on his right foot had turned purple.

Snow and near-whiteout conditions greeted the climbers the next day as they began. Taeko, feeling dizzy, decided to go back to the tent and wait for Yasushi. Yasushi continued over seventy-degree mixed terrain, reaching the summit at 1:30 p.m., six hours after beginning. He stayed on top only a minute before beginning his descent. A sense of listlessness greeted his return to the plateau. He was forced to stop every three or four steps and was reduced to crawling by the time he reached the tent at 3 p.m.

The storm continued, and they descended the next morning in ten-meter visibility. Taeko led; Yasushi experienced difficulties frontpointing due to the frostbite on his feet. They used the rope twice on the difficult traverse (anchors were problematic) before reaching 7200 meters, where they chopped a ten-centimeter ledge. Sitting on this, they pulled the tent over their heads for shelter. They were hit three times during the night by avalanches.

On October 10 they used the rope from the beginning. Yasushi went first. "Taeko was still vigorous, but I was exhausted," Yasushi remembers. "Still, we needed to establish piton anchors, and I抦 better at that than Taeko." The storm continued, and anchors were difficult to find. On the seventh rappel Taeko was hit by an avalanche as she approached Yasushi at the anchors. She flew over him, coming to a stop upside down in midair, out of sight below. Righting herself, she noticed the rope, which had run over a sharp rock, was about to break. She cried out to Yasushi not to pull the rope, secured herself to the slope with her axe and crampons and untied. She had hit her head against a rock during the fall and lost much blood, as well as her right glove; her vision in her left eye was also affected.

Yasushi pulled up the rope, understood the situation, descended to confirm Taeko抯 well-being, then reascended to retrieve the line. Another avalanche hit him, ripping off his goggles and affecting his vision as well. When he finally rejoined Taeko four hours later, he was exhausted and could no longer see. Taeko placed three screws and made an anchor for their bivy. When she went to light the stove, she dropped the lighter. They collected ice and swallowed it through the night.

Yasushi抯 vision had improved by morning, and they continued their descent with the rope, which had been reduced to thirty-five meters by Taeko抯 fall. When they reached the lower-angled slopes at the base of the face, they became separated. Thinking he might be better able to find Taeko from a distance, Yasushi continued down. Near the base of the face he noticed Gyaltsen, who looked up at him and said, "Tea, tea." Upon reaching the glacier proper, Yasushi looked back to see Taeko with some people. He noticed strangers nearby. "What are you doing here?" he asked them. "We are training," they replied. Two hours later Taeko rejoined him on the glacier. She had felt the presence of others the entire time of her descent, and when the two discussed it, they realized they had been hallucinating. They reached their advanced base before dark, made tea and slept well in sleeping bags.

At noon October 12, they rose. Taeko抯 vision had improved, while Yasushi was still experiencing difficulties in his right eye. They began the hike to base camp at 1 p.m. Taeko had not eaten for six days and was exhausted. Yasushi continued ahead through thirty centimeters of snow while Taeko followed slowly behind. At 2 a.m. they gave up their efforts to regain base camp and endured an open bivy. The next morning Yasushi took a photo of Taeko, then hurried for camp
alone. Only the dining tent remained. He shouted for Gyaltsen, who appeared and burst into tears. Their support team had assumed they had disappeared.

They began their return to Kathmandu immediately and were flown to a hospital in Tokyo on October 18. At the time of this writing, Yasushi has lost five fingers to frostbite, as well as all the toes on his right foot. Taeko, who lost eighteen digits and her nose to frostbite on Makalu in 1991, had the remaining joints of her fingers amputated. Operations to treat their frostbite continue.

GYACHUNG KANG 北壁 斯洛文尼亚路线 第二支登顶队伍
（译自《Alpinist》杂志）

山野井妙子和山野井泰史在十月份尝试了Gyachung Kang峰(7985m)的斯洛文尼亚路线（M4 55゜ 2000m, Car-Jakofcic-Jost-Meznar-Prezelj-tremfelj, 1999年首登）。他们于9月16日到达大本营。在北壁脚下建立前进营地之前，他们花了二十天在BC到6900m之间作高原适应训练。10月5日，他们离开了大本营，他们的厨子Gyaltsen留守。10月6日凌晨5点，他们从5900m处开始上升，无绳索攀登一段混合地形（50゜~60゜）。这一段的上部是仰角的冰岩混合地形，为了避开雪崩，他们从下面横切过去，到达7000m高度。在这里，他们费了很大劲才挖出了搭帐篷的平台。第二天，他们继续无保护攀登直上，然后向右方横切到一块宽阔的30度的平地，海拔7500m。他们在这里露营，这时山野井泰史发现右脚的几个脚趾已经变紫。

第二天当他们开始攀登的时候，大雪使周围一片白色，几乎让人失明。妙子感到头晕，决定回到帐篷等待泰史。泰史随后攀登了70多度的混合地段，于下午1点30分登顶。这时距出发已经6小时，他在峰顶只停留了一分钟就开始下撤。回到露营的平地时，倦怠的感觉让他在随后的下撤中不得不三四步一停。下午3点，他几乎爬着回到帐篷。

暴风雪还在继续，他们第二天早上下撤的时候能见度只有10米。妙子领攀，泰史因为脚上的冻伤，脚尖很难踩稳。他们在较难的横移处两次使用了绳子（保护点还有问题）。到达7200m后，他们挖了个10厘米宽的小平台。他们把帐篷搭在头顶坐着撑过一夜，其间被雪崩击中了三次。

10月10日，他们从一开始就使用绳子。泰史在前面：“妙子状态依旧很好，但我已经精疲力尽了，”他回忆道，“我们依然需要用岩钉做好保护点，这个我要熟练些。”　暴风雪还在继续，保护点也很难找。在第七个下降的绳距时，妙子在接近保护点的泰史时被雪崩击中了。她从他头顶飞过，在视野之外的半空中倒悬着停住了。恢复平稳后，她发现绳子在一块锋利的岩石上的部分快要断掉了。她叫喊着让泰史不要拉绳子，并用冰镐和冰抓把自己固定在坡上然后解开绳子。在滑坠中她的头撞到了岩石上，流了很多血，右手的手套也丢失了；左眼的视力也受了影响。

泰史拉起绳子，意识到情况的严重，降下去确定了妙子的状况，又上升收绳子。这时又一次雪崩击中了他，打掉了他的雪镜，也影响了他的视力。当两人最终到一起的时候已经是四小时以后了，他精疲力尽而且完全失明。妙子打了三个冰锥，做好了露营的保护点。当她点炉子的时候又把打火机弄掉了。两个人只好找了些冰，整晚填进肚子。

早上泰史的视力恢复了一些，他们继续用仅剩的35米绳子下降。到达北壁脚下坡度较小的地方时，他们已经走散了。考虑到从远处更容易发现妙子，泰史继续下撤。在北壁脚下时，他看到Gyaltsen抬起头来对他说：“茶，茶。” 到达冰川上时，他回头看到妙子和一些人在一起。他也注意到了旁边的一些陌生人。“你们在这儿做什么？”他问道。“我们在训练”那些人说。两小时后，妙子在冰川上赶上了他。她在下撤途中一直觉得身边有其他人。两人讨论了一下，意识到这些都是幻觉。他们在天黑前回到了前进营地，喝了些茶，钻进睡袋里好好睡了一觉。

10月12日中午，他们起来了。妙子的视力好多了，而泰史的右眼还是不怎么看得见。1点，他们开始步行回大本营。妙子六天没吃东西，已经力竭。泰史在前面踩着30厘米厚的雪，妙子在后面缓慢的跟着。凌晨两点，他们放弃回到大本营的想法，再次露营。第二天早上，泰史给妙子拍了张照片，独自赶回BC。结果只看到了炊事帐，他大声呼叫着，Gyaltsen冲了出来，喜极而泣。他们的后援队早以为他们失踪了。

两人立即被送回加德满都，然后在10月18日回到了东京的一家医院。截至发稿时，泰史因冻伤而失去了5个手指和右脚的所有指头。妙子1991年在马卡鲁失去了18个手指及脚趾和她的鼻子，这次手指的剩余关节也被切除。现在手术还在继续。

slash
07.03 11:21

相关背景：

格仲康峰（Gyachung Kang），海拔7,952m ，位于喜马拉亚山区的孔布地区，卓奥友和珠峰之间，是世界第十五高的独立主峰。该峰于1964年6月10 日被Y. Kato, K. Sakaizawa和Pasang Phutar首登。次日，K. Machida 和K. Yasuhisa登顶。1999年，斯洛文尼亚队首登北壁。2002年，山野井泰史亦完成该线路。


Yasushi Yamanoi
日本近代登山代表人物山野井泰史，1965年出生於東京，10歲左右即開始爬山，11歲受到電影「勃朗峰輓歌」的感動，15歲加入日本攀登俱樂部，高中畢業後，即往美國優聖美地國家公園的許多自由攀登路線從事攀岩。此後，一直在獨攀或無氧氣供給下持續挑戰諸多困難攀登，成為世界級的登山家。1988年攀登北極圈Baffin島Thor峰西壁，1990年南美Patagonia Fitz Roy大岩壁獨攀成功。1991年開始向喜馬
拉雅群峰挑戰。1994年卓奧友峰（8201m）南西壁單獨首登。2000年世界第二高峰K2（8611m）南南東稜以僅48小時時間單獨首登。2002年挑戰格仲康峰（Gyachung Kang, 7952m）北壁登頂後，遭遇惡劣天氣而奇蹟式生還。（摘自《中华登山》第135期）

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